Alaska and Pacific Northwest
Motorcycle Tour - June 2000

Background

My wife, son and I moved to the land down under in 1983. Our son moved back to Manitoba, Canada in 1994. Our visits to Canada and USA are a combination of adventure and family time.

Alaska and Yukon Territory interested me for some time. Discussing and viewing photos of Alaska travels with travel agent friends increased our interest. The distance from the our parent's homes meant that a trip to Alaska would take up about five weeks.

The Differences

The number of  motorcycle tourists increased form a couple of sightings per day in early June to a few sightings per hour by the end of June. Considering motorcycle touring in Canada or the lower 48 states some differences become apparent

• Alaska prices for accommodation 
• distance between service centres and large towns
• long daylight hours in summer
•  

Getting There

We noticed that European motorcyclists who brought their machines with them often started in Anchorage, Alaska.

We started our tour in Vancouver and arranged the purchase of a suitable motorcycle in Vancouver before leaving Australia. The dealer's co-operation helped to eliminate the lost time waiting for service, registration and insurance. 

We chose to take BC Ferries from North Vancouver and Port Hardy to Prince Rupert British Columbia. From Prince Rupert we took Alaska Marine Highway vessels to Haines Alaska, near the top of the Inside Passage.

Ferries

Our ferry travel was in early June. We did not make advance reservations and were able to travel at the times we chose. There is usually room for an extra motorcycle. There is an advantage in booking ahead, to ensure a confirmed reservation rather than travelling standby. In early June, most of the vehicles on the ferries are large Recreational Vehicles (RVs). 

We were unable to travel on one ferry from Juneau Alaska. The previous night, an incoming ferry caught fire and the vessel we were to travel on was diverted to rescue the passengers and vehicles on the stricken vessel. Even standby travellers must have a boarding card in the first come first served standby system. Fortunately, motorcycles are often able to occupy the half spaces at the end of columns of vehicles on the ferries.

The Alaska Marine Highway ferry out of Prince Rupert was nearly full on departure. The number of passengers and vehicles decreased as the journey progressed. Our ferry travelled to Sitka and departed at an odd hour and stopped at Ketchikan, Wrangell, St Petersburg during the night. It arrived at Sitka in the early evening. By that time there was extra space even for vehicles. 

Passengers are only allowed on the car deck at certain infrequent times. We took advantage of these times to retrieve and put back sleeping bags, toiletries, food items, etc.

Motorcyclists are responsible for tying down their machines. The most common method was with the motorcycle on its side stand, two ropes to the left and one to the right. We had no problem with the motorcycle moving during the voyage. One terminal advised us to supply our own tie down ropes. Three 3 metre lengths of 5/8 inch yellow poly rope served the purpose. A bowline loop at one end allow the rope to be fastened to floor rings to X holes. Depending on your motorcycle, loops of 1 inch webbing might be needed for rope tie points on the motorcycle. BMW riders seemed to prefer centre stand rather than side stand.

Accommodation Options

Alaska prices apply to accommodation. Because of the number of tourists there might be no vacancy in  the motels and B and B's. We had experience and equipment for motorcycle touring and camping. This style of accommodation suited our life style.

State Forests, National Forests, State Parks, National Parks and Alaska State Recreation Sites provide camping areas suitable for motorcycle campers. Because many tourists use RV's camping sites are oriented toward the RV travellers. The sites with firm gravel pads for RV's were avoided when possible, in favour of softer sites where tent pegs could be driven.

I was previously advised that bookings for rooms on the Alaska Marine Highway ferries were filled up to six months in advance. On the ferries we travelled on, cabins were available for hire at the start of the trip. We slept on the lounge chairs in the solarium, with our sleeping bags and self inflating mattresses. The overhead heaters are turned on at night. The first night out of Prince Rupert was somewhat crowded, but the second night there was plenty of space.

Tents for Motorcycling

Based on years of experience we use a Eureka Yellowstone dome style tent with an Australian rating of 3 to 4 seasons. The interior of the tent is clipped to 2 alloy poles and the fly uses an extra half bow to increase the useable area of the two peg out vestibules. It weighs about 4 kilograms or 9 pounds. It has enough space clothing to be stored inside the tend. Other items were stored in the vestibules or in the motorcycle panniers or trunk box. The inside of the tent has a screen mesh panel near the peak of the dome. The two side doors have zippered panels that cover the screen. temperature and humidity is regulated in cool conditions by increasing or decreasing the amount of uncovered screen in the doors. Hot and humid weather would be a problem, but we encountered none of this in Alaska or the Yukon. 

Food

The selection of grocery items in small towns was often disappointing. We learned to stock up in the larger towns. We enjoyed rice, lentils, beans and stews, supplemented with fresh vegetables, dried fruit. We used a Coleman Peak 1 multi fuel stove, with a good simmer setting. It burned Coleman Fuel / Shellite camp fuel or unleaded fuel.

Tips

• June was a good month for motorcycle tourists. 
• Mosquitoes increase in numbers and aggressiveness from early June onward. 
• Where there are rainforests there is rain, even in June
• The areas along the Inside Passage are known for high rainfall. Be prepared for rain
• Maps are available that show camping and other facilities at State and National Forest and State Recreation Sites. These were more useful than travel guidebooks for finding camping facilities and bush walks.
• RV tourists are surprisingly friendly outside their mobile homes. Motorcycle campers live outdoors. Some RV tourists commented - we camped beside you  at Liberty Falls, - we were on the Whittier ferry with you. Others chatted with us as we prepared out morning coffee at a picnic table. 
• camp sites usually include a picnic table and fireplace
• free wood is usually damp wood, although this was not the case in the Yukon

Laundry and Showers

Laundries often have shower facilities. In one village we found that the service station and general store also had laundry and shower facilities. Alaska Marine Highway Ferries have showers on board. We took advantage of the facilities.

Important Dates

Plan where you intend to be at the summer solstice. The farther north, the more the "midnight sun" effect. 

Weather

Moderate but cool to cold temperatures near the ocean.

Glacial fed streams are cold and cold air often drains down the waterways. 

Farther inland, the continental effect is evident. Warm days and cold nights.

Daylight Hours

The southern boundary for the Northwest Territory and most of the Yukon Territory is latitude 60.The Alaska pan handle starts at latitude 54 degrees and 40 minutes. We did not see a sunset or sunrise in Alaska until we camped at Fort Saint John British Columbia. Under clear skies, we had no problem reading maps inside the tent after 10.00 pm. We had to get up at 4.00 am one day to catch a ferry from Juneau Alaska. Even though it was overcast, there was still sufficient light. In South Australia, the sun seems to move straight toward the horizon at sunset. In Alaska, the sun skims the horizon as sunset approaches. 

The length of the daylight hours seemed to reduce the overnight temperature drop - nights were short.

Road Conditions

The farther north, the greater the problem with frost. Permafrost is a particular problem in Alaska. It is being overcome by building the roadbeds higher so that they are less effected by variations in the moisture content of the roadbed. Touring and Dual Sport  motorcycles in Alaska are usually loaded to the limit. The riders must take appropriate action before a sudden change in road surface occurs. It is a long way between motorcycle repair shops. The consequence of mishap is much greater because of the remoteness of the location. There are plenty of daylight, no need to rush or hurry when riding. Customs officers at borders typically advised us to take care. 

Road Construction

It seems to me that about 10% of the Alaska Highway was under construction or reconstruction. I expect this will continue for the next 5 years or so. Construction sections are usually down to a single lane traffic with a pilot vehicle that leads the traffic from one end of the construction to the other. Areas under construction usually have one good gravelled lane, except that the gravel is frequently loose. Staying upright is a challenge. We slowed down through the loose patches and increased speed when we clear or bare patches of road. The vehicle at the front of the line passes through a minimum of dust. Flag persons are sometimes understanding allow a motorcycle to move to the front of the queue. 

Pot Holes - Soft Patches

The surface of roads is gradually being raised to minimise the effect of uneven moisture content in the road base. In spring, thermal expansion and contraction of the roadbed can result in soft patches and potholes. The patches are elongated by the vehicle traffic. Reduced speed helps in coping with the sudden change in road surface from firm chip sealed surface to soft roadbed. The potholes and soft patches occur on curves as well as straight sections of road. Care must be taken because of the sudden changes in road surface.

Gravel Patches

After the potholes and soft patches are repaired, the section of road is then gravel patched. I expect that tar or some adhesive is applied to the repaired lane of the road then gravel is spread over the surface. Depending on the age of the gravel patch the surface can range from loose gravel with no sign of a firm tire track, to a section of road with no evidence of the patch. road signs warn of the gravel patches. Again, reduced speed will allow motorcyclist to enter the gravel patch at a safe speed. If the surface is favourable, speed can be increased when travelling through the patched area. Gravel patches usually cover the full width of one lane. They occur on curves as well as straight sections. Slow down to be ready for the change in road surface and traction.  

Mosquitoes

Compared to South Australia, Manitoba and Ontario there are a lot of mosquitoes in Alaska. The numbers increase throughout June. Swatting mosquitoes was a persistent pass time. I  was kept busy at meal times and generally when not motorcycling. The less skin exposed, the less surface area to defend - collars turned up, sleeves rolled down, pant legs tucked in socks and a head covering helped to keep the mosquitoes from biting. Two layers of clothing were often needed since the insects were able to penetrate a single layer close fitting garment.. I tried various repellents. 95% to 100% DEET gave almost acceptable results. However DEET dissolves plastics so care must be taken after it is applied. Fine mesh head covers which fit over a brimmed hat were common and would be useful in situations where a person was outdoors for a prolonged period. The DEET took up less space and once applied lasted for a couple of hours. Environmentally friendly repellents worked for about 10 minutes - not long enough for me.

 Conclusion

It was an adventure. It was worth while. Five weeks was OK but there was a lot we did not get to see.

Last modified 13/06/2009